Tapuach Junction, West Bank - Friday, Nov. 8
I'm now out of Nablus, having crossed the massive Huwwara checkpoint on the city's southern edge. I'm waiting at a bus stop with Jewish settlers to take me the final leg to Jerusalem.
The mood here can be summed up by the black-and-white poster glued to the metal side of the bus stop, which is defended by cement blocks for passengers to duck behind in the case of attack:
"Struggle for the Land of Israel," the sign reads.
"No to a Palestinian state!"
"They are S-C-A-R-Y!!!"
Yes, with hyphenated letters and three exclamation points.
A 15 minute drive north, in the Old City of Nablus, the walls are plastered with photos of Palestinian "martyrs" - members of Hamas and the al-Aqsa Martyrs' Brigades - who died in the last intifada. The ancient stones are also covered spray-painted swastikas.
The middle ground is unrepresented anywhere in these parts